How to Make Vegan Florentines (Almond Christmas Cookies)

As with any old and traditional recipe, there are, of course, quite a few variations on the florentine and about a million and one different recipes. So I did a little drilling to figure out what the most important aspects of the florentine were so I that I could make a vegan version that retained all the most essential elements. So for those of you that are curious, read on to see what I learned.

The Ingredients:

First and foremost, florentines are an almond cookie. Some people use slivered almonds; some use flaked almonds, and others use finely ground ones (which is what you’d typically find in a “lace cookie”–a specific variation of the florentine). In my experience, the flaked and slivered work almost interchangeably. But I like the flaked florentines (with the skins still on) a little better as they make a prettier cookie.

The next traditional and nearly universal ingredient is the candied orange peel (although I’m sure someone has made them without it). The marriage of citrus and almond is a beautiful one. If you haven’t tried it yet, you’re in for a treat.

Other than the (almost) essential orange and almond, florentines can include a whole host of possible mix-ins. Hazelnuts are very traditional. And many recipes also call for cherries (glace or dried), pistachios, sesame seeds, apricots, figs, or cranberries.

For these vegan florentines, I stuck with the combination I fell in love with while we lived in London: a mix of almond, orange peel, pistachios, and figs.

Really though, the nuts and fruits you choose are fairly interchangeable so you can play around and find what flavor combinations you love. I’m even working on a nut-free variation on these vegan florentines so keep posted for that one!

The Process:

The next big question is one of process. A classic Florentine is made by melting together a sugar (sometimes caster, sometimes white granulated, and sometimes brown), butter, and, sometimes, flour and cream to form a thick caramel which is then used to bind together all the fruits and nuts. The caramel, nut, and fruit combo is then spread thinly on a baking sheet and carefully baked for just a few minutes until perfectly toasted. Here it is essential to keep a wary eye on the florentines (and perhaps start with a single cookie as a “test” just to find the perfect timing for your specific oven). They have to cook enough that they brown on the bottom slightly and become crispy enough to hold together, but if you cook them for just a minute too long, they will burn. Luckily, florentines cook very fast (Usually around 6-10 minutes. In my small oven these vegan florentines take 7.) so at least you don’t have to stand watch very long.

Next comes the part we personally consider the hardest. You just have to leave them alone while they harden up and you can coat the bottom side with chocolate.

Chocolate or No Chocolate?

Coating them in chocolate is definitely traditional, and we are very pro-chocolate around here so we always coat them. But, as Felicity Cloak at the Guardian points out, some people do prefer their florentines “nude” (that is, without the chocolate layer). In, The Pocket Bakery, Rose Prince argues you can better appreciate the fruit and nut flavors without the chocolate.

If the chocolate version weren’t so delicious, maybe I could convince myself to resist coating one in chocolate and give it a try.

Chewy or Crisp?

While always quite delicate, thin, and crispy, some recipes yield a slightly chewy texture (achieved by adding honey or a pinch of flour) while other recipes yield a cookie more akin to brittle. Some variations even grind the nuts to achieve an even more crisp “lace cookie” texture. But those aren’t the florentines I came to love in London nor the ones I’ve created here.  

In my view, the perfect Florentine is a bit more chewy than brittle-like. But just as important as they chewy center is the crisp, delicate edge where the sugar caramelizes around the base of the cookie.

These cookies get their slight chewiness from the addition of the almond butter along with the maple syrup and coconut oil. Meanwhile, it is the coconut oil (make sure to use refined) and maple syrup which caramelize into that crisp edge on the bottom and edges of the cookies.

So there you have it. These vegan florentines are: crispy almond and pistachio cookies bound together in a maple, almond butter, and coconut oil “caramel” kissed with orange peel and sweetened with figs. Just perfect.